Sparkling enthusiastic eyes, alive with wanderlust, peered out of the slightly misty bus windows -- backpackers; and lots of them! My growing apprehension was soon dispelled by the friendly and easy going bus driver, who quickly loaded my ‘many’ bags into the oversized trailer and ‘packed’ me into the bus. Soon; I was seated and unreservedly greeted by my fellow passengers -- I was just another backpacker.
I can honestly affirm that my initiation into backpacking was rendered painless by the ‘Baz Bus system’ -- and that the two month journey, from Cape Town to Durban, has become one of my most memorable experiences. This ‘Backpackers Route’, with its numerous hostels and adventure activities, is justifiably one of the most popular in South Africa.
To gauge any level of bias, I asked numerous fellow backpackers what they thought of the Baz Bus -- “Too Easy” was a frequent reply! “Oh; would you like something different?” I would ask incredulously. “Oh no”, they would reply, “It’s perfect!” looking decidedly bemused at my strange question, like I hadn’t understood ‘their’ meaning. Apparently, travelling by Baz Bus is easier than what is offered in South America, but is similar to a bus in Australia. Mmmn…
Judging quality has always been a relative science, and I found it easier to ‘evaluate’ after quizzing seasoned backpackers about their opinions and after my own ‘hostel experiences’. Initially, not being a seasoned backpacker myself left me at a distinct disadvantage, especially since all my travel writing has been for safari styled travel -- bizarrely, yet plausibly enough, I found backpacking so very different in offering, yet so intrinsically similar in aspiration!
I thought two months was along time; I was wrong. The reason: the backpacking industry in this region South Africa is so intertwined with a myriad of interesting activities, that the integration is seamless and endless. Adventure is everywhere to be had, easily satiating the appetites of the extreme adrenalin junkies and the more sedate travellers.
Extreme adventures include: Bungee Jumping off the Bloukrans Bridge () : the Oribi Gorge Swing () : Cage diving with Great White Sharks : Horse Riding Safaris in Big 5 Country : viewing African Wildlife up close on Science Safari...
More sedate adventure activities include: Hiking, Canoeing, Horse Riding, , SCUBA Diving, Snorkelling, Tandem Paragliding, Mountain Biking, Kloofing... the list is endless so be sure to spend at least a month on this backpackers route!
Another popular activity for many backpackers is experiencing the diverse culture of South Africa's people. Cultural tours are usually undertaken in a rural setting, such as the Wild Coast, where one gets to meet and interact with the more traditional African culture. Township tours, on the other hand, are urban experiences that offer an insight into township life.
Backpackers hostels along the route:
Choosing a backpackers hostel is not just about the accommodation, it is more about the ‘package’ that is on offer -- for example: what activities are nearby or available via a tour company... I have selected the backpackers hostels that I list here firstly because I found them to offer a particularly good ‘package’ and secondly because enough fellow backpackers referred them.
A Sunflower Stop -- Cape Town (a compulsory Baz Bus Stop) -- This luxurious backpacker’s hostel is well situated to explore Cape Town. The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the many top beaches (Clifton, Llundudno, Camps Bay), the abundant tourist attractions (Table Mountain, etc.) and the lively Cape Town city centre, are all a quick bus trip away.
There are so many activities in and around Cape Town that you will be hard pressed to fit them all in. One of the most popular activities is viewing Cape Town from the top of Table Mountain -- this is a must for any traveller. Although I prefer hike up the mountain, most tourists use the cable car, which is a great deal easier albeit a more expensive option. I found the day trips to the Cape Peninsula and the Winelands most interesting (organised for me by the backpackers) -- and the Great White Shark Cage diving... well... swimming will never be the same again!
In my books, A Sunflower Stop wins the award for the best accommodation, ablutions and kitchen of any backpackers -- plentiful, clean, spacious…
Swellendam Backpackers -- Swellendam -- a lively and nature activity orientated backpackers, set at the edge of this quaint rural town that doesn't seem to have changed much in the last hundred years.
Beach House Luxury Backpackers -- Wilderness -- The backpackers is situated on a ridge within a grove of milkwood trees, a mere 100m from the huge expanse of Wilderness Beach. The Beach House definitely has one of the best locations on the Garden Route -- the second story balcony and kitchen have the ultimate veiw of the beach and...! You can sit here all day and just soak in the view... awesome!
Tanaqua Lodge & Tours -- Port Elizabeth (a compulsory Baz Bus Stop) -- My first impression of the backpackers was that I had booked into a game lodge. Although Tanaqua is set within the city of Port Elizabeth, the lodge offers whale watching excursions, and very affordable tours to local townships and to the Addo Elephant National Park.
Having grown up in a “coloured” township, the owner, Bradley (a registered tour guide), offers an interesting perspective to apartheid and post-apartheid South Africa --- in fact, having experienced township life first hand, Bradley is particularly well qualified to lead a township tour!
Bomvu Backpackers -- Coffee Bay -- Set in the territory of the Bomvana tribe, amongst a grove of coastal forest trees, Bomvu Backpackers has a laid back African atmosphere. At Bomvu you can learn to make your own drum, play a drum around the fire, watch a tribal performance and enjoy fresh seafood (mussels, crayfish, oysters etc.) for dinner.
The Kraal Backpackers -- Mpande -- a genuine Xhosa kraal styled backpackers with traditional Xhosa mud huts and chickens scratching for food under your feet! This pleasantly different backpackers is nestled in a natural amphitheatre overlooking the Indian Ocean. If you want to get close to rural Africa, this is it!
The Spot Backpackers -- Umtentweni -- This is the ultimate beach spot -- just walk out of the front gate and you’re on the beach! Laid back Days can be spent relaxing in the hammock, walking on uncrowded beaches, swimming or simply admiring the view. Early birds can sip coffee and watch dolphins surfing in the warm Indian Ocean, or conquer the waves themselves with free surfboards or bodyboards. Adventure seekers will find more thrills at the nearby Oribi Gorge -- the Wild Gorge Swing!
KwaMnandi Dive Lodge -- Umkomaas -- With the world famous Aliwal Shoal on its doorstep, KwaMnandi Dive Lodge, as its name suggests, is in SCUBA diving country. From a backpacker’s perspective, two of the regions top diving charter companies are located on the adjoining property -- you can literally roll out of bed and flop into the launch vehicle.
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The Baz Bus offers independent budget travellers and backpackers the opportunity to explore the most beautiful towns and cities in South Africa at your own pace. All you need is one ticket to your final destination and you can hop on and off as often as you like along the route. Furthermore; the Baz Bus drops you off and picks you up from your backpacking hostel or lodge! |
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